SUPPLY GUIDE
Everything you need for kinusaiga
Foam board, double-sided adhesive sheets, a few simple tools and your favorite fabrics — then a step-by-step walk through cutting, tucking and finishing your first piece.
See the finished board & material layersFoam board
The base that holds every groove. Firm, even foam gives crisp lines.
Owens Corning FOAMULAR NGX Project Panel, 1" thick
Rigid pink insulation foam sold as project panels at home-improvement stores. The 1" thickness holds tucked fabric firmly and won't crumble at the groove edges.
Tip: Avoid bead foam (the white, pebbly kind) — it breaks apart as you cut.
Board size
Cut the panel to the same board size you print from the studio — 8×10, 11×14, 11×17, 16×20 and more — so the template lines up edge to edge.
Double-sided adhesive sheets
Applied to the foam before any fabric goes on, they keep every piece in place while you tuck.
3M double-sided adhesive
A strong, reliable hold for covering the foam surface.
A4 double-sided adhesive sheets (8.3×11.5")
A 30-sheet arts & crafts pack from Amazon. Butt sheets edge to edge for boards larger than one sheet, smoothing from the center outward to push out bubbles.
Keep the top liner on while scoring
Leave the top release paper in place while you transfer and score the template, then peel it section by section as you work.
Cutting & tucking tools
A few simple tools do almost all the work.
X-Acto knife with extra blades
Change blades often — a dull blade tears foam instead of slicing it.
Alcohol prep pads
Wipe the blade clean of foam residue and adhesive as you cut so it keeps gliding smoothly.
Seam rippers
FIVEIZERO Seam Rippers (2 big, 2 small) from Amazon. The fine tip pushes fabric edges down into the grooves — use the small ones for tight sections.
Scissors & thread snips
Sharp scissors for cutting fabric pieces to size; the snips included with the seam rippers trim small edges.
Pencil & tape
For transferring the printed template onto the foam.
Fabric & finishing
Scraps go a long way — most sections need only a few inches.
Thin, non-stretch cottons
Quilting cotton, kimono silk or lightweight blends tuck neatly. Stretchy or thick fabrics fight the groove.
Prints and solids
Small prints add texture to fur, feathers and petals; solids give eyes, noses and outlines clarity. Preview them in the studio first.
Craft glue (optional)
A tiny dab for edges that won't stay tucked.
Frame or backing
A shadow-box or deep frame suits thicker foam.
Step-by-step cutting & tucking
- 1
Print your template at 100%
Download the board-size or tiled letter PDF from the studio. Print with scaling set to 100% / actual size, then tape tiles together along the guide marks.
- 2
Prepare the foam
Cut the 1" FOAMULAR panel to your board size. Apply double-sided adhesive sheets to the top, smoothing from the center outward. Leave the top liner on for now.
- 3
Transfer the template
Tape the print over the foam. Trace each black line firmly with a pencil or ballpoint so it leaves a light impression, or use tracing paper. Remove the print and keep it as your numbered reference.
- 4
Score every line
Hold the X-Acto knife upright and cut along each line about 1/4" deep into the 1" panel. Use steady, single passes — don't saw. Every section must be fully enclosed by grooves.
- 5
Check the grooves
Run a seam ripper gently along each line to open it slightly. Look for spots where lines don't meet and connect them so fabric has somewhere to tuck.
- 6
Plan and cut fabric
Follow your numbered color map. Lay fabric over a section and cut a piece about 1/4" larger on every side than the section itself.
- 7
Start from the background
Work from the largest background sections toward the foreground and finest details, so foreground pieces sit on top cleanly.
- 8
Peel and tuck
Peel the liner from just the section you're working on. Lay the fabric down, then press the edges into the grooves all the way around with a seam ripper, keeping the fabric taut.
- 9
Trim and tidy
Trim any extra fabric that won't tuck, then press it in. Neighboring sections share a groove — tuck both edges into the same line.
- 10
Add details last
Eyes, noses and small accents go in last. A small seam ripper and a dab of glue help with the tiniest pieces.
- 11
Mount and frame
Apply a second adhesive sheet to the back of the foam, press it onto your backing or frame panel, and you're finished.
Tips for clean results
- Wipe blades with an alcohol prep pad and swap in a fresh one the moment cuts start to drag — clean grooves make tucking far easier.
- Iron fabric before cutting so it lies flat and tucks evenly.
- If a section loosens, re-score the groove a little deeper rather than adding more glue.
- Keep the template's numbered map beside you so each fabric goes in the right section.
- Run the studio's cutability check before printing to find sections too small to tuck.
Tips & tricks from the studio
Lessons learned at the board — open any tip to read more.
01Adhesive sheets: alignment matters
Lay adhesive sheets as evenly and close together as possible. Overlaps create raised areas; gaps leave spots without enough adhesion. Thin or light fabrics show these lines most.
Patterned fabrics can help disguise areas where the adhesive isn’t perfectly lined up.
02Sharp scissors are your friend
You don’t need expensive tools. A set of large and small seam rippers plus scissors helps with everything from big sections to tiny corners.
Sharp scissors make cutting easier and reduce fraying.
03Open tiny cut lines first
Before tucking small areas, gently run your seam ripper through the cut lines to open them a little, so the foam doesn’t collapse. Be gentle — open the grooves, don’t excavate.
04Start in the middle of a line
Tuck from the middle of a cut line toward one corner, then return to the middle and work toward the other. Then move to the next side.
Hold down the already-tucked side while working the adjacent one — it keeps it from pulling loose and reduces wrinkles.
05A gentle pull-and-poke
If fabric won’t cooperate, gently adjust or pull it while guiding it into the groove. Small, controlled movements beat wrestling the fabric.
06Cut fabric on the board
Lay a larger piece over the area, run your seam ripper along the cut lines to indent the fabric, and use that as a cutting guide.
Leave about ½ cm extra for medium and large sections; cut closer for small ones. Don’t cut into the foam or neighboring fabric.
07Frayed edges aren’t a disaster
Use the side of your seam ripper, not the point, to gently guide loose threads into the groove.
08Don’t be afraid to simplify
A section that looks fine on screen can be the size of a grain of rice in fabric. Choose a simpler template or use a larger board when sections are too small to tuck comfortably.
Keep the finished board size in mind — bigger, cleaner shapes are much easier.
09Rotate your board
Instead of twisting your wrist into awkward angles, turn the board. A comfortable position gives better control over your seam ripper.
10When you need white
Paint the board white first; use two layers of white fabric if one isn’t opaque; or leave the adhesive’s white paper backing on and cover with fabric (cleanest, but a little slippery).
For tiny white details like eye reflections, paint them on instead of cutting microscopic fabric circles.
11Tension cuts are your friend
If fabric pulls tight around a curve, make a small relief cut in the excess fabric. Keep the cut within the part that gets tucked away.
12Cut too short? Don’t panic
Gently loosen a tucked edge and redistribute a little fabric toward the short side. It won’t always work, so don’t pull too hard.
13Simplify, adjust, or walk away
If something isn’t working, reposition the fabric, rotate the board, change your approach, or take a break. Rushing usually means more fixing later.
14Good lighting and breaks
Good lighting helps you spot gaps, loose threads, wrinkles, and uneven areas. Get up, stretch your neck and shoulders, and move around regularly.
15More things learned along the way
Test fabrics first for fraying, stretch, and adhesive show-through. Keep scraps for practice.
Plan colors and patterns ahead — some patterns hide imperfections better. Take progress photos to spot uneven areas.
Be gentle with the foam; repeated digging widens grooves. Don’t expect perfection, and be patient with yourself.
16There’s more than one way
Fabrics, adhesives, foam boards, and designs all behave differently. Experiment and find what works for your supplies. Happy tucking!